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| Bon Voyage |
It has been over two weeks since my last blog entry. We have been mostly out of easy internet access so please excuse my delay. Our family has been traveling for about weeks now. I'm sure you have noticed how when traveling time gets warped in strange ways? Kind of like that star trek episode where Sean Luke has a second life in a French village one day? Thats how I feel. Lots has happened, feels like forever. Today is Friday. If I was home I would be all packed and heading to Burning man with my camp, the French Maids.I want to wish them all an epic Burn and a safe return to our default world, with plenty of stories to tell. Bon Voyage!
After Lampang we headed North to Chaing Mai. I dont know if I am getting used to the long bus rides but it didn't seem as bad as the last one. Chaing Mai is often described as peoples favorite city in Thailand, the shopping, the temples, food, etc. I guess I'm just not that much of a city guy. Our accomodations were fine, the Gulare guest house. The shopping was amazing at the night market. Ethnic ware and clothing from all over. I bought 6 pairs of pants mostly for dance and Burningman(already shipped home,said a prayer and let go).We bought a cheap unlocked cell phone which has proven invaluable. We will be able to use it everywhere we go. We buy minutes at any convenience store. Local calls are dirt cheap and calling the states is only 10 cents a minute.
I have had several massages now from low end to high and can relate some of my experiences. Just a caution, BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU ASK FOR,(you just might get it). Friends suggested going to a temple for a massage as they might be your most consistent bet. OK, Lysa and I found our nearest temple offering massage, walked into a large hall of activity and made our request for an hour each,me on the floor and Lysa in the chair. Picture a huge hall with rows of mats and dozens of people receiving massages. As no oil is used in thai massage you stay dressed in loose fitting clothing. I found my place on an empty mat and waited to begin. I am guessing a number of people came in at the same time as there was a bit of confusion and hustle to get going. I think my massuese was the boss lady(figures I would get her). While she was getting me settled she was on her cell phone and also directing traffic. Picture one hand Kneading my leg ,one hand directing traffic ,and a phone in the shoulder going constantly. Not what I would call personal attention. OK I'm only paying $4.00 but still. I was doing my best Buddha effort to not get pissed, and then she actually left me for 15 minutes, coming back occasionally to rub a muscle here and there. Well the hour went by and I did use the time to practice loving kindness and compassion so it wasn't a complete waste. Lysa's was somewhat better but she also was on the phone a lot(a common practice I'm discovering). We had been told of a high end spa called Oasis, so the family made reservations there. This place was amazing! The décor and the grounds were stunningly maintained and the customer service and courtesy were perfect. Lysa and I booked 2 hour treatments together and Anika got a facial and milk bath. The staff had obviously been trained in catering to the western clientle. Everything about this experience(save one) was perfect. Our treatments were a combination of Thai and western massage techniques. As such they were done on a typical massage table not the floor. The room was amazing, wood paneled,flowers ,soft lights and music. We were directed to put on these funny spa panties and lie face down on the table. Unlike at home since it is thai and western the practitioner is standing on the floor and also actually on the table for parts of the work. My massuese was attentive and well trained, but the massage table itself looked homemade and had no padding on the front edge where my western style adam's apple settled. I tried various ways to relieve the pressure but try as I might I couldn't find a comfortable position. Every time she applied pressure to my back or shoulders my neck was crushed into the edge causing extreme discomfort. Seeing my unease she attempted to remedy the situation with a towel as a cushion with limited success. Of course when I flipped over that problem was resolved and the rest of the massage was fantastic. Both Lysa and Anika had a fantastic experience. I resolved that somewhere in Thailand I would have a fully satisfying massage experience. To that end I went to the local shop in the food court where we ate many of our meals while in Chaing Mai. This spa was a small storefront with chairs out front and massage space inside, partitioned with curtains. I made my request and received the most satisfying treatment yet. At $7.00 per hour it was mid price and worth the extra 3 bucks. While on the phone occasionally and talking to other workers sometimes ,my person was attentive and offered a proffesional ,satisfying experience. Now let me tell you briefly about the last massage I received in Chiang Mai. The family had trip business to attend to and after as a reward we treated ourselves to another spa experience(why not?). We stepped into another of the ubiquitous storefront spas and made our requests known. Lysa and Anika mani/pedicures, Dave a 2 hour massage. After a bit of phone work my massage person arrived. While lying comfortably on the mat my therapist asked in a gentle voice “sir would you like light medium or firm massage”? Being a pro with an ego I replied “firm please”. My first warning should have been when she said “Its OK you can ask for change later”. Without going into every excruciating detail let me just say that it was the most intense 2 hour physical experience of my life(by far). I saw all kinds of colored lights as I tried to breathe through the pain.I was crying like a baby on the inside wondering why I didn't tell her to ease up. I survived, barely, but for over a week my body was so sensitive that a mere touch would evoke painfull flashbacks. Another lesson in keeping the ego in check, thank you very much. I have since had other massage work and I am learning what to say and ask for. I will say however that I even more appreciate all the excellent staff members at Well Within. Thank you for the thousands of great massages I have received there.
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| Doi Suthep |
One of the highlights of Chaing Mai was our excursion up the mountain to the temple at Doi Suthep. Lysa and I did this one without Anika who by this time was pretty much templed out. Doi Suthep sits outside of the city on a rocky promutary. Its a bit of a schlep,but by far my favorite. Its hard to describe why, perhaps its location ,possibly the fact that it seemed to be a more vital active temple with dharma talks ,meditation retreats, and a Mothers day celebration. Maybe it was the misty rainy environment or the young boy with the smile beyond his years begging for money at the temple steps. I purchased a Buddha amulet from the concession stand and it was given a blessing from the monk before being presented to me. I wear it every day now.
As I type slowly(about one word per minute) this blog entry is going to take all day. After Chaing Mai our next destination was a village homestay in the North east of Thailand. Lysa had made this reservation in advance of our ttrip from research she had done online. We took another long bus to get there from Chiang Mai. Lamai guesthouse is run by Lamai and her Scottish husband Jimmy. We had some arrival communication issues and we weren't at our best upon arrival after a long day. I was wondering if this might have been a mistake as my first impression of Jimmy was not favorable. I have learned however that first impression can be misleading esp. after a long day of travel. I will say that one good thing was that most of our stay required very little decision making on our part and that was a nice respite. Jimmy was a retired playboy type with all sorts of facts and opinions of Thailand and the world. He mostly regaled us with travel horror stories and his impressions of Thai culture(not always favorable). He took us touring to the local ruins, the zoo and other nearby attractions. This part of Thailand recieves only 2% of the tourism and Jimmy has his own theory about why. The touring part was all good but the real pleasure was experiencing the local village scene with Lamai. Lamai has lived in her village her whole life and unlike most has chosen to stay. Those still living here lead a very simple life much unchanged from their ancestors(save the TV and cell phone). They still farm rice for local consumption and augment their diets with foraging for frogs ,snakes, rodents and bugs.(really). We visited the local school which i'm sure Lysa will describe in greater detail. I introduced the kids to frisbee which they took to immediately and they showed me a game they play with stones similar to Jacks. We also spent a day with the local basket weaver, learning to make a basket. This man may be the last of a dying breed in his village as no one is learning from him. He weaves mostly from split bamboo. We made a simple basket, but he showed us many utilitarian objects he creates. The most impressive to me were these intricate long(4 feet) tubular baskets used to trap fish when draining the rice fields. Each basket takes about 4 days to complete. He sells them for 280 bat(thats only$9.00) You can understand why no one is learning his craft when they can move to the city and make $1.00 an hour. Lamai pointed out the houses where it was apparent that a family child had left and was sending money home. The housed were well constructed and acted as a nest egg for when the children would return for their own retirement. Other highlights included a day in the silk weaving village learning the process of silk production and weaving. We(mostly Lysa) wove our own silk scarf. It took us 2 days on this old loom set in the side of the weaver lady's house. She patiently set us to work and fixed our problems as they appeared. Apparently we were a little strong on the loom and kept breaking threads, but over time we got the knack for it and produced a lovely scarf.
After a week of village life we were faced with the decision of where next.Weary of rain we longed for a sunny beach environment but were unsure where to go. We chose Ko Chang in the gulf of Thailand hoping for the best. After another long bus and a night in the coastal town of Trat we took the ferry to Ko Chang. Since we are here in the off season we made advance reservations for only one night, figuring we could look around a bit the next day. We picked a seaside spot recommended by the book, Blue Lagoon, more like blue swamp. Run down mosquitoe infested with a rat on the front porch. Lovely. Good food in the restaurant though. I was starting to get that sagging feeling that we had made a tremendous mistake but kept it at bay with a large bottle of Chang beer. The next day we wandered about and happened into KB resort. While twice as expensive($40.00 per night)it was worlds better. Clean cottages ,a swimming pool ,close to the beach,friendly staff etc. Everything I need to have a relaxing time. And this is where we stay. Plenty of fun things to do interspersed with hours of lounging.We visited the local waterfall which is part of the interior national park. Ko Chang is mountainess with most of it within the park boundries. Chang means elephant in Thai so an elephant excursion was part of our itinerary. Lysa in particular has an affinity for these grand animals. Once again she was in heaven during our 2 hour trek through the jungle. After trekking we had a chance to swim with the animals(yes,swim!). We went down to the stream where 2 of them were bathing in the water and we could jump in and on with the elephants. Great fun.
We plan to be here for several more days then we will take 3 days to go to cambodia and visit the ruins at Ankor Wat. From there its back to Bangkok where Anika wants to buy a Ukulele.After that its on to Bali.
I finished reading the book on Buddhism by Lama Surya Das. Awakening the Buddha Within. I would recommend it to any one interested in Buddhism or interested in personal reflection. I have tried to incorporate some of what I have read into my life and have found it helpful esp. with my relationships with others, Anika being the most immediate benefactor.
I have been typing for hours, my back is tired and its time for lunch. I wish for you all peace and good health. Sawadee , David