Japan, it's complicated,and expensive,and Amazing!

Greetings from Japan! We have been here about 10 days now and this is the first time I am able to post a blog. Leaving Bali was hard,because as much as I complained about certain things in my last post we made strong connections there with locals and other visitors. Like Joni Mitchel sang; you dont know what you've got till it's gone. Bali was so Easy in hindsight. Things that we took for granted there are amazingly complex here.

Mt. Fugi from the bullet train

     There is no such thing as a soft landing in Japan. After a long flight with a layover in Malaysia we arrived in Tokyo very late and very tired. We were fortunate to have a connection in Tokyo, thanks to Lysa, who met us at the airport. The man is a university professor and an ex student of Lysa's Uncle. His name is Shige and having him meet us was a blessing. Lysa had been in email contact with Shige,so we had a place to stay on the west side of Tokyo on campus for a very reasonable price. Shige whisked us there and we collapsed into our new home with no energy to spare. Shige is very concerned about our welfare and I'm sure feels personally responsible for making Japan manageable for us.  OK, here's the complicated parts.... Getting $ is much more of an ordeal here than in either Bali or Thailand. We discovered that the only places our bank card works is at the post office and 7/11 stores. We tried several other ATM's before we figured that one out. Making a phone call is a complex undertaking. Shige insisted that we have our own phone(more for his peace of mind). Buying a phone is a complex and expensive ordeal that took several hours,tons of paper work and more money than I want to admit. I heard we could rent a phone but Shige insisted we buy one and put us on his family plan. Using our computer to connect to the internet, which is vital, has also been a challenge. Very few places offer wi/fi our usual method,and internet cafes are non existent.

Magome at dusk

    Unfotunately, Lysa was not feeling well for the first couple of days and that added further stress to our adjustment. There were moments, I admit where I was longing for my simple life in Santa Cruz.  Anika and I had an exploratory day together that gave me some confidence that we would survive Japan. We took the JR train into downtown Tokyo for a shopping adventure. The JR train system is amazing efficient and helpful for visitors. We made the effort before arriving in Japan to buy rail passes which has been very useful, although expensive. We went to the uber trendy Shibuya district and followed the cute fashionistas to "109", a shopping mecca for the younger set. Anika was in heaven and she turned some heads herself, being one of very few western kids. There are surprisingly few western travelers in Japan. We have only met one other couple from the US and a few European visitors. Japan is set up for the Japanese and they know how to enjoy their own country.

Inuyama Castle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dinner in Magome

  After a few days adjustment, we were ready to explore the country. Lysa being the research and plan person had laid out some potential itinereries and after much back and forth with Shige we had a plan. Shige was sure we would get lost at every turn and lobbied hard for us to stay in Tokyo and do day trips. While that may have suited Anika, it wasn't what we had in mind. We set off with our new phone, tons of cash from stockpiling, and our rail passes. Our first destination was the Kiso valley, near theJapan alps. The town of Magome would be our first night away from Tokyo. Magome is a beautifully restored town on the old post road from Tokyo to Kyoto. We spent the night in a "minshuku" which is a lodge that offers tatami style rooms, and 2 meals in a rustic building.  The Japanese have elevated dining to an artistic and gastronomic delight. There were at least 12 different dishes at most meals, even breakfast. Magome is a pedestrian heaven, no cars strolling wonderland. Every view is magical. We were starting to fall in Love with Japan! The next morning we sent our bags ahead to Tsumago, another link on the post route, and walked the 5 miles through the country side at our liesure. We past old buildings, farms, waterfalls, and Shinto shrines before arriving at our next days lodging. Both towns are picture perfect and a throw back to days past. Such a relief from our first days in Tokyo. Next was the town of Inuyama, known for the oldest remaining castle in Japan and the 3rd most admired tea house and garden. We happened upon a street festival showcasing the towering floats built in the eighteenth century, adorned with carvings and topped with "kurukari dolls",fantastic mechanical dolls that do elaborate performances. These floats are so large it takes a team of 20 or so men to pull them down the street.

Takayama

   We stayed at a "youth hostel" more like a hilton, which also included two lavish meals,for 2 nights. The following day our plan was to head to Takayama a small city with much to offer. Getting there turned into a major fiasco which I was entirely responsible for. As I mentioned we are traveling by rail with a pre purchased Japan Rail pass good for 21 days. These tickets are like gold and cost as much. They are also non-replaceable if lost. We had a 9:00am train to catch and got to the station with time to spare.  Money....check, passports...check...Railpasses no check. I looked every where, they were in my possesion last but were not to be found. Picture 3 desperate travelers frantically searching all of their belongings, tearing through their luggage, while sympathetic locals wander by. It was a travelers nightmare. Lysa kept saying I told her I put them away safely but where? Finally I looked in the one place I should have looked first. They were in my money belt where I keep extra cash. I was giddy with relief when I found them but we missed our train by minutes! My family was forgiving of my blunder but it cost us several hours. We are now in Takayama. We are staying at a Buddhist temple,with tatami rooms, a kitchen and wi-fi access! Takayama is a city of 100,00 people with lots to see and also many nearby day trips. We explored the Japan alps, which reminded me of the Sierras.
We left Anika at home to skype her friends and catch up with email. There is so much to do and see everywhere we go, we already know we cant see it all and we vow to come back. We all love Japan, for different reasons. Anika for Tokyo and shopping, Lysa and I for onsen, history, nature,food,and culture. In my next blog i will report on our onsen experiences. Suffice to say AHHHH.
   One final note before I sign off... a big warm Birthday greeting to my friend Karuna.  Obey the Awe!